One place to find these details is on the internet RV forums. You might need to participate a couple and question what the weight could be for the van you’re looking at. Be unique here. You have to know the sum total packed fat with water, gas and the maximum amount of equipment as you would generally take along on the average trip. Search for multiple opinion. Many people may believe they know the solution but have they really considered their product? Probably not. I have considered two of my people on Federal DOT vehicle scales (don’t question me how) and these were both a few hundred pounds on the manufacturer’s said weight.
Be practical too. Your camper will probably never get any lighter. Many people tend to accumulate more amenities and the RV just keeps finding heavier. Some fundamental principles apply here if you’re searching (sounds like you got that new camper, eh?) for a brand new hauler. You know the real fat of your slip in. Make sure the truck has a cargo capacity at the least equivalent to that particular number. Wheels, suspension, motor and axles are typical measured to work within this rating.
If you plan to tow a truck take that weight into consideration also. The truck language (hitch) fat must NOT put the vehicle around it’s scored axle sizes for entrance and back in addition to combined. Your vehicle will also have a Major Mixed Fat Status, which is the sum total weight of vehicle, all freight and all towed vehicles.
Engine & Transmission suggestions are very the topic of another article and mainly a subject of personal preference. My decision is really a 6 tube diesel motor with a 6 pace transmission. This gives me a great compromise between energy, energy mileage and driveability. I also like the capacity to use an exhaust brake with the diesel to simply help with the stopping, specially if you find number trailer behind.
Does your vehicle and van mixture “steel and roll” as you part or when major rigs move? This really is really popular and more distinct with the newer people that can be very tall and top heavy. My new camper, with an increasing floor and a lot of mind room, is a great foot larger than the 2003 camper I used, that has been in no way a low-rider. Also, a lot of today’s 4×4 trucks really are a several inches higher than the older trucks.
Mix that with the lengthier rear springs installed on a lot of the newer trucks and your van can actually swing in the breeze. Even double back wheel pickups aren’t immune. The vehicle human body moves from sideways on the axle property so the additional set of back tires doesn’t completely correct the problem. What to do?
You can find a number of probable remedies. Nearly all trucks may benefit from back air tool springs. If you are fortunate to truly have a truck that welcomes air bags installed outside of the truck body rails, they could substantially minimize the human body throw as well as support bring the weight of the camper. Inboard installed air springs is going to be some help with the human body throw but their major work is to carry some of the weight.
Air springs may also help to stage a van that’s weightier on a single side. That is a frequent situation these days with large refrigerators, generators and slide-outs. Our camper has all three on the passenger area therefore it really leans over. By working about 20 PSI more on that side the Truck Camper degrees out.
Does your vehicle have back’contact clog” rises? Many 1 load trucks do have these along with many of the new HD 3/4 load trucks. They are the small, manufacturer overload springs that only make contact once the truck is seriously loaded. Being that they are short and firm, if you add them to function earlier they really create a difference.